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Posts Tagged consumer units
Ryefield Boards – the 9 way Ryefied Board, nine way 60A Ryefield TPN fuseboards
Posted by sparksdirect in all-time best-seller, ask Mr Sparks, consumer units, electrical products, guest expert, products pictures, promotions, technical data, website update on July 18, 2011
The RY9 is a 9 way TPN Ryefield Board – the most popular and used Ryefield TPN Fuseboard. Since the manufacturer themselves don’t offer too much information concerning the Ryefield boards, all you have to see on our website are the technical specifications of this 9 Way Ryefield Board. If you need a Ryefield Board or a Ryefield Fuseboard urgently, you can contact us and it can be ordered + quoted on request! The Ryefield Boards are part of the industrial consumer units on our website – read a more comprehensive review of the Ryefield boards, fuseboards, Ryefield cut outs and service head dis. fuseboard. With cases fabricated from 18g steel sheets, the covers are lift-off hinged ones with padlocking attachment and Multilock. The back of the Ryefield TPN Board cases is drilled and embossed for the wall fixing, and the clamps are standard main grass clamps(adjustable, in order to accept 25 square mm to 120 sq mm stranded conductors). The brass neutral of the Ryefield Boards in the TPN range is with main clamp and pinching screw circuit terminals – one per fuse unit. The finish of the Ryefield TPN Fuseboard case is enamelled epoxy polyester powder Dark Grey Shade, the screws are made of steel, and the component parts are zinc plated.
The 9 Way Ryefield TPN Board – The RY9 Main features
- The case: fabricated from 18g steel sheets;
- The lift off hinged cover: with padlocking attachment and Multilock;
- The back of case: drilled and embossed for wall fixing;
- Standard main brass clamp and pinching screw circuit terminals – one per fuse unit;
- The brass earth block: with pinching screw terminals and PME link;
- Part of the Ryefield TPN boards – see the full range;
- Plain removable plates top and bottom as standard;
- The fuses taken: 60A service type fuse units;
- The Ryefield TPN Board: 9 ways fuseboard;
- The dimensions: 535(Height) x 400(Width) x 180(Depth) mm;
- The finish: This Ryefield Board case is enamelled epoxy polyester powder dark grey shade. The steel screws and component parts zinc plated.
- More about the Ryefield Boards and Fuseboards(other models);
- Buy online the 9 way Ryefield Board, RY9 Ryefield Fuseboard.
To purchase online Ryefield boards, view our full offer at the Industrial Consumer Units, where you can choose the proper Ryefield board for your need. For any advice, contact us, email us with a request, call us, or even visit us in our showroom in Archway – our consultants will help you in your decision and choice. Do not forget: All the Ryefield Boards are In-Store Pick-Up only.
How to change the battery in your Aico Fire alarm? Aico Advice: changing the battery
Posted by sparksdirect in ask Mr Sparks, fire alarms, guest expert, in-house announcements, technical data, website update on June 16, 2011
This guide is taken from the Aico website – how to change the battery in your alarm? – tips for homeowners. The alarms that are in your home will most likely be wired into (and powered from) the mains power, but are likely to also have a built-in battery back up to power the alarm if the mains fails. There are two main types of battery back-up – Rechargeable Lithium and Alkaline. The Fire Alarms with a Rechargeable Lithium back-up will never need their battery changing as the back-up is designed to last for the lifetime of the alarm (10 years). Alarms with this type of back-up will have a sticker on the front, like that shown below.
Remember: on the Sticker it needs to say, Rechargeable Lithium back-up
The Fire / Smoke Alarms with Alkaline battery back-up will need the back-up battery changing during the life of the alarm. Typically, the battery will last around 3-4 years in standby but the alarm will beep once a minute to let you know when the battery needs changing. The battery is built-in to the back of the alarm, so the alarm will need to be removed from it’s base-plate (which is the only part actually fixed to the ceiling) before the battery can be changed.
Removing the fire alarm
Step 1: Turn off the mains power to the alarm. To do this, have a look on your fuseboard/consumer unit for a circuit marked ‘Smoke Alarms’ and turn this circuit off. The green light on the alarm should go out.
Note: if you don’t have a circuit marked ‘Smoke Alarms’, turn off the main power switch. However, be aware that this will turn off the power to everything in the house, including the lights.
Step 2: Look for the alarm removal slot on the side of the alarm. There will be a label with a grey arrow pointing to the slot, along with the wording ‘TO REMOVE, PUSH SCREWDRIVER INTO SLOT & PUSH COVER AWAY’. Push the tip of a small flat bladed screwdriver into the alarm removal slot. You only have to push it in around 1cm as this will be enough to release the locking latch inside. Make sure you keep the screwdriver horizontal (i.e. parallel to the ceiling) as inserting it at an angle could jam the locking latch.
Step 3: With the screwdriver still inserted, slide the bottom half of the alarm horizontally away from the screwdriver. It should move across slightly.
Step 4: Now the alarm is released from the base-plate and is free to be removed.
Note: The base-plate will still be fixed to the ceiling as this is the part that is wired into the mains power.
Replacing the Aico Fire Alarm Battery
With the alarm removed, you will be able to see the battery in the back. Remove the old battery from the snap connectors and replace with a new one, then refit the alarm.
Note: Use one of the following 9V Alkaline batteries only – Duracell MN1604 or Energizer. Other batteries may cause problems.
Refitting the Aico Fire Alarm Battery
Once you have replaced the battery, offer the alarm back up to the baseplate and slide back on – the reverse of removing it. Go to your fuseboard/consumer unit and switch the mains power to the alarm back on. The green light on the alarm should now be on constantly. Finally, test the alarm using the test button – see the ‘How to test your alarms’ section.
Buy online the Aico Fire Alarms – Aico Heat Alarms – Aico Smoke Alarms – for domestic use, or read more about the Aico Fire Detectors (and check out the Fire Alarms section on the blog).
ESC First Aid advice: in case of an electric shock, what should I do?
Posted by the electrician in ask Mr Sparks, consumer units, electrical products, electrical safety tips, guest expert, in-house announcements, security systems, switches and sockets on May 17, 2011
We grew up learning about this, we are being taught in school about the first aid in case someone is electrocuted, and as we go on in life and get a job, the Health and Safety rule book becomes our best friend from time to time. Still, many times we need to be reminded of some simple rules and advices on how to deal with someone in case of electrical shock. Via the Electrical Safety Council website we found some tips – see the Guide and Advice, First Aid Advice section.
What to do if you believe someone has had, or is getting, an electric shock?
- It may not be immediately clear that someone is getting an electric shock. Smoke won’t be pouring from their ears! If you think someone is suffering from electric shock, approach with extreme caution.
- The first step is to separate the person from the source of electricity as quickly as possibly. The best way of doing this is to turn off the supply, for example by unplugging the appliance or by turning the mains off at the fusebox (consumer unit).
- If this isn’t possible, then try to remove the source of electricity from the person using a piece of insulating material, such as a length of wood.
- NEVER touch the person receiving the electric shock, or you could suffer one too.
- After removing the person from the source of electricity, if the person is unconscious call for an ambulance immediately. Only those with the necessary knowledge and skill should carry out first aid.
- Where the person is conscious and seems well, it is still advisable to monitor their condition, as the effects of an electric shock may not be immediately obvious. In worst case conditions, an electric shock may lead to a condition known as electroporation, where cells within the body rupture, leading to tissue death. Additional problems might include deep-seated burns, muscle damage and broken bones.
Protection from Electrical Shock – use an RCD
Use an RCD. Using an RCD will help to protect you from dangerous electric shocks. Although not a guarantee of absolute safety, it limits the time current can flow through the body if a person comes into contact with a live source of electricity.
It is strongly recommended that anyone using electrical appliances in the garden(like: garden lights, etc) ensures that they are protected by an RCD, preferably one fitted in the main household fusebox (the consumer unit). Alternatively, a dedicated RCD-protected socket or a plug-in RCD should be used.
ESC advice: what to do if the lights or the sockets are not working, troubleshooting
Posted by the electrician in ask Mr Sparks, electrical safety tips, guest expert, lighting systems, standards and regulations, switches and sockets on January 6, 2011
This article is part of the ESC series of advices for the home users, electricians, and anyone interested to find out solutions to their problems or simply know what are the current rules and regulations for being electrical safe in the UK. Even more, this particular article deals with what to do/not to do when the wall lights or ceiling lights are not working, and what to do when the sockets are not working. Especially in the UK, many people rely on the electrician to do all the work / know everything – but sometimes it is absolutely necessary that we ourselves would know a little of what’s going on with the electrical devices / wiring accessories in our home.
ESC Troubleshooting Advice: In case the Wall or ceiling lights are not working
- If your wall light or ceiling light are not working it will be due to either a bulb that has blown or there is a problem with the circuit. To find out whether it is just a bulb that has blown, please check to see if the lights in other rooms are working. If it is a circuit problem then all the lights in one or more rooms will not be working.
- In the case of a blown bulb – switch the light switch to the off position and wait for the bulb to cool down. Take out the blown bulb from the light fitting and insert a new bulb.
- In case the circuit has a problem – find and open the cover on your consumer unit (fusebox). Most homes have two lighting circuits, one for upstairs and one for downstairs. Check if one of the circuit breakers has tripped (turned off). If it has, reset it by switching it back on, the lights should now work.
- If resetting the circuit breaker does not work, it is recommended that you call an electrician.
Please Note: most modern circuit breakers are sensitive devices and a bulb blowing can easily cause them to trip.
ESC Troubleshooting Advice: In case the Socket not working
Check that it definitely is the socket that is not working by plugging a different appliance into the socket. It is also recommended to try other sockets to see whether the problem is with one or, as will probably be the case, with several sockets. Here are some things you might find useful to help you find what is the problem with the socket / the sockets:
- In case the problem is with the appliance – if it is the appliance, check the plug and try replacing the fuse. If this does not work then the appliance may need to be repaired or replaced.
- In case the problem is with the socket – find and open your consumer unit (fusebox) and check the circuit breaker for the particular socket outlet circuit. You will also need to check the residual current device (RCD).
- The circuit breaker and/or the RCD may have tripped (turned off) due to a faulty appliance that has been plugged into a socket. You will not be able to reset either of the devices until the faulty item has been unplugged from the circuit.
- If you are not sure which appliance has caused the problem, you can do one more thing: unplug all appliances, reset the circuit breaker and/or RCD by switching back on. Then, plug each appliance back in, one by one, until the faulty item (which trips the circuit) is found.
- If you still cannot reset the circuit breaker and/or RCD even with all the appliances disconnected, it is recommended that you call an electrician.
- For large appliances that are wired into a circuit such as a cooker or immersion heater, check whether the circuit breaker has tripped and try to reset it. If this does not work, don’t hesitate to call an electrician.
Read the entire article via the Troubleshooting section on the ESC website. Also, take a look at the below ESC Tips for homeowners:
- Avoid the potential electrical hazards, use a NICEIC-registered electrician;
- Simple Guide to Choosing an Electrician for the domestic electrical work;
- Rules for electrical safety in the home(read before starting any electrical work)!
- Tips for Electrical Safety in the Kitchen – Kitchen Safety at Home;
- Plug Into Safety – Use RCDs to protect yourself, your family, and your home!
- Electrical Safety in Homes, using the Extensions Leads & Adaptors safely;
- Electrical Safety Outdoors, Avoid Electrical Accidents in the Gardens;
- Electrical Safety for those Living in rented accommodation, tenants landlords;
ESC advice: what is a fusebox, and more about the mains switch, the fuses, and the RCDs(consumer units tips)
Posted by the electrician in ask Mr Sparks, consumer units, customer service, electrical products, electrical safety tips, guest expert, technical data on December 21, 2010
After quoting the Electrical Safety Council about the Plugs and the Fuses(for more electrical safety), the article below continues to give us some advice regarding the consumer units – the fusebox each one has in their home. What is a fusebox? Or, what is a Consumer Unit? According to ESC in their article entitled, Your Fusebox, a consumer unit or fusebox is used to control and distribute electricity around our homes. They usually contain:
- A – Mains switch
- B – Fuses or Circuit Breakers
- C – Residual Current Device
Your Fusebox / Consumer Unit – the Mains Switch
The mains switch allows you to turn off the electricity supply to your electrical installation. Some electrical installations have more than one mains switch, for example, if your home is heated by electric storage heaters, you may have a separate consumer unit (fuse box) for them. The consumer unit should be easy to get to, so find out where the mains switch is to turn the electricity off in an emergency.
Your Fusebox / Consumer Unit – the Fuses
Rewirable fuses have a piece of special fuse wire running between two screws. When a fault or overload current flows through the fuse wire, it will become hot, and melt when the current goes above an acceptable level. The melted fuse breaks the circuit, disconnecting the faulty circuit.
Your Fusebox / Consumer Unit – the Circuit Breakers
Circuit breakers are automatic protection devices fitted in the consumer unit which switch off a circuit if there is a fault. Circuit breakers are similar in size to fuseholders, but give more precise protection than fuses. When they ‘trip’, you can simply reset the switch. However, you first need to find and correct the fault.
Your Fusebox / Consumer Unit – the Residual Current Devices
An RCD is a switching device that trips a circuit under certain conditions, and disconnects the electricity supply. If your electrical installation includes one or more RCDs, test them regularly. You can do this by following the instruction label, which should be near the RCD. The label should read as follows: ‘This installation, or part of it, is protected by a device which automatically switches off the supply if an earth fault develops. Test quarterly (every three months) by pressing the button marked ‘T’ or ‘Test’.’ The device should switch off the supply. You should then switch it back on to restore the supply. If the device does not switch off the supply when you press the button, contact an electrician. Testing the button every three months is important. However, do not hold the test button for a long period if the device does not trip. If the RCD does not switch off the supply when you press the test button, get advice from a registered electrician.
If your fusebox has a wooden back, cast iron switches, or a haphazard mixture of fuses it is likely that it dates back to before the 1960s and will need to be replaced[read the entire article about Your Fusebox on the ESC website].
There are at least two types of consumer units – the Domestic Consumer Units and the Industrial Consumer units – find them via the Electrical Items section / Consumer Units.