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Posts Tagged british standard
The LEDs explained: LED types, LED power supply, and standard references
Posted by admin in ask Mr Sparks, electrical safety tips, energy saving lights, guest expert, new technologies, standards and regulations, technical data, website update on May 1, 2012
The LEDs, based on supply current and power, can be classified into two main families:
- The POWERLED – can be supplied with current more than 100mA with typical values of 350mA, 700mA, 1A e 1,5A.
Referring to white, blue and green LEDS with a maximum forward voltage of 4V, the above current values correspond approximately to 1W, 3W, 4W, 6W power. These type of LEDs must be controlled precisely in current, therefore must be connected in series. - The SIGNAL LED (“MINILED”) – whose supply current is about 20-70mA and therefore corresponding power is of 0,1-0,3 watt.
Also coming in white, blue, green signal, these leds have a typical forward voltage of 4V (only 2V for red and yellow leds). The strip and LED modules with signal leds are designed for constant voltage supplying, 12V-24V typically and for parallel connection.
Power supply and dimmers for LED modules
Basing on above considerations there have been two power supplies families that have been developed:
- The power supplies for POWERLED for constant current driving (CDT “Current Drive Technology) and serial module connection. The typical driving currents are 350mA, 500mA, 700mA, 1A with an output voltage depending on number of modules and power supply chosen with a maximum of 48V.
- The power supplies for Signal LED “ MINILED” for constant voltage driving (or VDT ”Voltage drive Technology). The typical voltage values are 12V and 24V and the needed output power of drivers depends on number of modules.
Within the range of of POWERLED and MINILED power supplies there are specific “dimmable LED” types. The dimming can be of 0-10V signal type or potentiometer and “push” by push button. Besides, both for standard and dimmable types, multipurpose models are provided with constant current and voltage output selectable by means of jumper connection or dip-switch.
To control the RGB (red-green-blue) modules, suitable 3 channels power supplies and regulators are designed. The control signal may be “push” by button, by potentiometer or remote control and with special protocol like DMX. Also here for RGB POWERLED is provided current driving and for MINILED voltage driving.
Standard references for LEDs
- Safety reference standard: the EN61347 and related annexes.
- Electromagnetic Compatibility requirements the reference is for Radio interferences the EN55015 standard,
- Harmonics: the EN61000-3-2,
- Immunity: the EN61547.
General warnings related to LEDs
- The LED power supplies must be installed in suitable situations according to max ambient operating temperature ta indicated on catalog.
- The number of LED modules connected to a driver must not exceed provided power and voltage limits.
Source: this information is based on the LED specs and explanations from Relco Group (one of our suppliers).
ESC advice regarding checking a plug and the plug fuses; the plugs and the electrical safety
Posted by the electrician in ask Mr Sparks, customer service, electrical products, electrical safety tips, guest expert, switches and sockets, technical data on December 16, 2010
The following tips and advice are taken from the Checking a plug and the Plug Fuses pages on the ESC(Electrical Safety Council) website – simple tips regarding being safe at home! Home safety when it comes to electricity is very important, and you can never be too much when it comes to protecting your life and the life of the other members of your family from the electrical hazard or the dangers coming from interacting with the electricity. Specifically, you need to periodically check the cables and the plugs of all the devices, and make sure the fuses are being changed when they need to.
ESC advice regarding Checking a plug
In the UK all modern appliances such as hairdryers, vacuum cleaners and microwaves use a square pin 13 amp plug. Plugs and their cables can suffer damage with use so it is a good idea to check them regularly. With the plug removed from the socket, check the cable from end to end and ask the following:
- Is the cable securely attached to the appliance and the plug?
- Is the cable cut, nicked or damaged in any way?
There should preferably be no joints and certainly no repairs with insulating tape.
Tips on checking the plug:
- Remove the plug from the socket and check whether the plug is damaged or not.
- Look for signs of overheating, such as discoloured casing or cable.
- Check that the plug meets British Standard BS 1363 – it should be marked on the back of the plug.
- Check that the cable sheath is firmly clamped in the plug and that no coloured wires are showing.
For plugs that did not come fitted to the appliance, check that the cable is connected correctly as the following instructions: First of all, remove the plug from the socket, and remove the cover. Then, check that:
- the Brown wire goes to live (L);
- the Blue wire goes to neutral (N); and
- the Green-and-yellow wire goes to earth (E).
- Check that the cord clamp holds the cable securely and that both of the screws are tight.
- Check that the screws holding the three wires are tight.
- Check that the fuse is the correct size and meets British Standard BS 1362 – see the manufacturer’s instructions if you are not sure what fuse to use. The fuse should clip securely into its holder. It should not be loose and there should be no signs of overheating.
- Replace the cover securely.
ESC advice regarding the Plug fuses
Plugs in the UK are generally fitted with a 3A or 13A fuse. For appliances up to 700w you need to use a 3A fuse. And for appliances over 700w you need to use a 13A fuse. See below table for examples:
- a fuse of 3A is used for: Table Lamp, Standard Lamp, Television, Video, Computer, Mixer, Blender, Refrigerator, Freezer, Power drill, Jig saw, Soldering iron.
- a fuse of 13A is used for: Washing Machine, Dishwasher, Microwave, Kettle, Toaster, Iron
For the convenience of users companies who make appliances have standardised plug fuse ratings to either 3A or 13A, however other fuse sizes are still available. You can purchase these fuses + the needed plugs + the cables at Sparks Electrical Wholesalers Ltd. For now, we don’t have these fittings on the website, but please visit us at our Sparks and Lights showroom in Archway, North London.
The Aico Electrical Contractors Handybook – get it right with the Aico Fire and CO Detectors
Posted by the electrician in ask Mr Sparks, customer service, fire alarms, guest expert, products pictures, promotions, standards and regulations, technical data on October 6, 2010
The Aico Smoke Alarms, Heat Alarms, and CO Alarms are some of the best in the market – for both installers and home owners. We have extensively introduced them via the Fire Alarms section and the Fire-Detect website. Fitting smoke alarms is a serious business. Getting it right or wrong can mean the difference between life and death. To make sure they are fitted right Aico has produced an Electrical Contractors Handybook – how to install / deal with the Fire and CO detectors!
The Electrical Contractors Handybook is written in plain English and covers everything a contractor could want to know about our alarms including:
- What to fit:
# Complying with standards and regs;
# Where to fit - How to fit:
# Wiring diagrams,
# Product info - How to test and commission:
# Full testing checklist,
# Coding RadioLINK units,
# How to fill in your installation certificate - How to maintain and fault find:
# Cleaning alarms,
# Step by step troubleshooting - What to buy:
# Product specs,
# What works with what
To qualify for a copy of the Handybook, you must be a registered Electrical Contractor who is based and works in the UK, as it is based on UK standards and regulations.
Visit the Aico page to register online and receive the Aico Handybook for the Electrical Contractors, or you can request a Howsing Specifiers Pocketbook – essential for those specifying smoke alarms. 22.000 Contractors wouldn’t leave home without their Electrical Contractors Handybook!
As for the Housing Specifiers Pocketbook – it will guide you through the steps to take when specifying an alarm system as well as giving you a comprehensive information on testing, commissioning, maintenance, and more.
Aico Fire / Smoke / Heat / CO Alarms – buy online!
How safe is the wiring in your home(2)? The Part P of the Regs and Rewire first, decorate later
Posted by the electrician in ask Mr Sparks, electrical products, electrical safety tips, standards and regulations, switches and sockets, technical data, website update on July 7, 2010
This article is the second part of the “How Safe is the Wiring in Your Home?” advice from NICEIC – found online as a PDF file here. After dealing with: How safe is the wiring in your home?, Does your property need a complete rewire?, and The job of wiring consists of…, this article will continue to speak about:
- Make sure you rewire first and then decorate!
- About Part P of the Building Regulations;
- About the Portable Equipment Outdoors;
- Which electrician should I choose for the re-wiring?
Rewire your home first and decorate later!
Rewiring your home can be a messy job – it’s best to forget about decorating until it is finished. It can also cause major disruptions to the household as carpets and floorboards are up. You could also be without cooking facilities and hot water for some time so you should try to keep young children and pets out of the way. Or if you have confidence in your chosen electrician, you could take a holiday whilst the work is carried out (this may also result in a lower price as the contractor does not have to put the boards back, carpets down and get the circuits back on each night).
To minimise disruption set some ground rules with your electrician before work begins:
- Get agreement that they will clear up after each day’s work;
- Get agreement that they will screw down all floorboards raised after completion;
- Get agreement that upon completion they will re-lay all carpets.
When your rewire and other installations are completed the electrician will give you an electrical installation certificate which confirms the work has been carried out, inspected and tested in accordance with BS 7671, the national safety standard for electrical installations. Do not give the final payment until you are completely satisfied with the work and have got your certificate.
Within 30 days of the work being completed, you will also receive a certificate that confirms that the work complies with Part P of the Building Regulations. If you used a NICEIC electrician, the certificate will carry the NICEIC logo and the name of the firm you used. It is a legal requirement to comply with Building Regulations, so you should ensure that your electrician is registered with a government-authorised Part P scheme. If, during the course of the work, you require alterations or additions to the installation, request a fixed price. Finally, check with your electrician if the local Public Supply Authority will be required to disconnect and re-connect the electrical supply to which there may be additional charges.
About the Part P of the Building Regulations
Part P of the Building Regulations for England and Wales was introduced by the government in January 2005, with an aim of reducing the number of accidents in the home related to faulty electrical installations. Similar laws apply in Scotland. It is now a legal requirement for electricians, kitchen, bathroom and gas installers, and all other trades or individuals involved in carrying out domestic electrician work to comply with Building Regulations.
Most electrical installations carried out in a property are now notifiable – the local authority building control must be notified prior to the work being carried out. The exception is if it is carried out, and certified by a person registered with a government-authorised competent scheme such as NICEIC. Failure to comply with Part P is a criminal offense and local authorities have the power to require the removal or alteration of work that does not comply with regulations.
About the Portable Equipment Outdoors
In domestic premises, all sockets outlets, which may be used for portable equipment outdoors, should be protected by an RCD (a safety device that switches off the electricity automatically when it detects an earth fault) to provide protection against electric shock. The socket outlet installed below kitchen worktops may usually be considered to be unavailable for connection of outdoor portable equipment, and would therefore not be required to be RCD protected. It is wise to exclude socket outlets intended for refrigerators and freezers from circuits which require sensitive RCD protection.
Which electrician should I choose?
The NICEIC registered contractors are assessed against the national standard for the safety of electrical installations, British Standard BS 7671: Requirements for electrical installations (also known as the IEE Wiring Regulations). They must also comply with the electrical safety requirements of any other applicable Codes of Practice, such as those for fire alarms, emergency lighting. In England and Wales, it is a legal requirement for electrical work carried out in and outside the home to comply with Part P of the Building Regulations. The easiest way to be sure that your electrician complies with the law is to employ one registered with a government authorised scheme, such as the NICEIC Domestic Installer scheme. Registration with NICEIC is voluntary – however, electrical contractors that are competent and conscientious about the service they offer customers consider registration a priority.
Forbes and Lomax sockets, fused connections and European Sockets, the compliance and the fitting
Posted by sparksdirect in light dimmers, standards and regulations, switches and sockets, technical data, website update on October 29, 2009
We continue to update the Forbes and Lomax pricelist and the items from their full offer – especially since they changed/added the new models with the metal rockers, it can be a little complex now. Also, there are some more details from their brochures which we think is quite important for people to know – see the new details about the Forbes & Lomax switches and dimmers, and now: sockets and fused connections, the European sockets, the Forbes and Lomax compliance to the existing British Standards, and The Fitting of the Forbes & Lomax devices.
More about the Forbes & Lomax Sockets and Fused Connections
In the case of the Sockets and the Fused Connections, white inserts come as standard. To request black, select the models with the suffix code with (B) (except on Antique Bronze range where black is standard). Where metal switches are required, suffix code with (PB) Brass, (S) Stainless Steel, (N) Nickel or (AB) Antique Bronze. ‘Invisible’ sockets are designed to be used on wallpapered walls and although may take a little more time and effort to install can give great results. ‘Invisible’ socket plates have to be made in a slightly thinner acrylic than the switch plates to enable them to securely take a plug, meaning that the corners of the plates can be prone to bow outwards slightly. This becomes more apparent when they are used on painted walls, so in this instance we recommend our ‘Painted’ sockets that are made from aluminium and supplied primed white, ready to take the paint finish of your choice.
More about the Forbes and Lomax Sockets (European Sockets / Miscellaneous)
It is essential to use British wall boxes when installing ‘European Sockets’. We recommend that you use a single plastic box (code SPB/EU) or a double plastic box (code DPB/EU). Italian sockets are only available with white inserts.
Forbes and Lomax – Compliance to the British Standards
Switches conforming to BS EN 60669-1:2000
The ‘Invisible’ light switch is made with a clear acrylic bevelled 3mm thick plate, fixed to the dolly (toggle) switch with a metal ring. It comes complete with a grid plate, which enables wallpaper etc. to be placed between the actual switch and the plate and a key to tighten the ring.
Sockets conforming to BS 1363 and BS546
The ‘Invisible’ socket has a 2mm acrylic plate and is designed for use with wallpaper. ‘Invisible’ socket plates have to be made in a slightly thinner acrylic than the switch plates to enable them to securely take a plug, meaning that the corners of the plates can be prone to bow outwards slightly. This becomes more apparent when they are used on painted walls. Therefore in this instance, we recommend our ‘Painted’ sockets that are made from aluminium and supplied primed white, ready to take the paint finish of your choice. These sockets come with a white or black plastic insert and a 1.5mm thick flat metal plate etch-primed in white.
The Fitting of the Forbes & Lomax devices
Our standard sockets and switches fit into British Standard 35mm deep flush wall boxes, with the exception of the fused connections, the cable outlets and the shaver sockets which require a 47mm deep back box. Wall boxes for picture light sockets, shaver sockets and European power sockets should be recessed into the wall by 6mm. Single European sockets, TV, TV/FM, TV/SAT, TV/FM/SAT, TV/QUAD, TV/COM, TV/DBL, SAT, SAT/COM SAT/TEL1, SAT/TEL2 and SAT/DBL sockets need to be fitted into back boxes with fixing lugs at the top and bottom. To obtain the best results, it is important that walls are as flat as possible and are made good to the edges of the wall box before the interior assembly is fitted. To avoid unnecessary damage, switch and socket plates should be fitted after electrical and decorative work is complete. Extreme care should be taken while handling face plates to avoid scratching. See below the Invisible Switch fitting and the European Sockets Fitting.
Note: Brass plates are unlacquered and will require cleaning for a highly polished look.
Fitting Instructions for the Invisible LightSwitch – the Invisible Plate
- Once the light switch is installed by a professional electrician, a piece of wallpaper can be cut to size using the inner plate as a template. For painted walls the primed inner plate can be painted to match.
- The acrylic plate is then placed on top and secured with the fixing ring using the plastic spanner provided.
- Our standard switches and sockets fit into British Standard 35mm deep flush metal wall boxes.
- For stud walls it is essential to sink the lip 1mm into the plaster around the box.
- The coloured plastic ‘wings’ should be fixed to the underside of the plasterboard with a strong masonry adhesive.
Fitting Instructions for the Forbes & Lomax European Sockets
- It is essential that British wallboxes are used when installing Forbes & Lomax European sockets.
- All wallboxes must be recessed by 6mm below the surface of the wall.
Order online Forbes and Lomax switches, sockets, fused connection units, dimmers, TV/data outlets, etc. Read more about the Forbes and Lomax different finishes, like: the invisible plate(with pictures), the unlacquered brass range, the antique brass range, the nickel silver range, the painted socket range, or the stainless steel range.